The Race Track Tyre Wear Guide 賽道輪胎磨耗指南

The Race Track Tyre Wear Guide

賽道輪胎磨耗指南 ← 直譯，很簡單吧XDD

這篇就是因為我老人家會忘東忘西的，所以整理起來，以免忘記用的

原始資料來自以下網址：

原文：http://biketrackdayshub.com/motorcycle-tyre-wear-guide/ ﹝就看到英文的部分﹞

小老婆翻譯：http://forum.jorsindo.com/thread-2478705-1-1.html ﹝就看到中文翻譯的部分﹞

鋼鐵網誌：http://www.ibike.com.hk/03_knowledges/09/tyre_reading/01.htm ~07.htm ﹝他就是整張圖片﹞

紫色就我自己的想法 

 

Common wear types and their causes 

In this guide I have gone over some of the different types of tyre wear that you can expect to find on track day tyres around the circuit paddock. My intention here is to help you learn more about bike tyre wear so you are better equipped to deal with a nasty tear if/when it rears its ugly head.

However, like most tyre based guides, the nature of the subject is quite complete, so it’s not as easy as saying this causes that, or that causes this (especially when talking about suspension adjustment) so please take this as being a somewhat simplified guide to motorcycle tyre wear, not the definitive resource. I’ll leave that to Mr Dave Moss. So let’s get on to the first type of tear.

大意是說，輪胎不是那麼好寫出他的狀況，還是需要很多經驗的，他只是簡單地寫出來

不過就算只有簡單的寫出來也是對我們有很大的幫助，也可以應用到“X宜賽道”

  

Cold Tear 低於工作溫度

Cause – Cold tear is caused by the tyre being overinflated. When the tyre is overinflated the contact patch on the ground is too small so it cannot generate heat that is widespread enough to bring the carcass of the tyre up to operating temperature. Instead what happens is the surface of the tyre super heats very quickly while the carcass stays below operating temperature, so the surface of the tyre is ripped straight off.

引發原因：輪胎胎壓太高，因而接觸面積太小，它熱量不足以提供整個胎體達到工作溫度，但是在接觸面卻超快熱，所以就形成撕裂傷

 

Symptoms – The tears are in fact quite deep into the carcass and are somewhat fingernail shaped. If you can get a fingernail under them and almost peel a sizable chunk of the rubber back off the surface of the tyre then this is a sure fire sign of cold tear.

特徵：輪胎的撕裂紋是局部而且深

這類撕裂現象發生於沒熱胎狀況，或是輪胎並未保持在工作溫度；這當中的並未保持在工作溫度指的是，可能輪胎負載太低導致出發前熱胎套﹝暖胎包﹞已經確實溫熱輪胎，但是騎乘中又冷下來了；但彎道中的高負荷依然局部的維持著溫度，所以變成局部承受高壓高溫。騎姿也會是因素之一。由於在直線時負載較均勻分布，彎道上負載狀況就較為極端多變，所以可能變成兩側仍在工作溫度中間已經冷掉的狀況。

簡而言之：你騎太慢(夠熱變不夠)，或是冷胎惡操(局部過熱)

 

Hot Tear 高於工作溫度 

Cause – Hot tear is caused by the tyre being underinflated. An underinflated tyre causes the contact patch to be too large on the ground which in turn means the tyre overheats. When the whole of a tyre over heats, the surface gets hot and is melted off very quickly and is pitched away due to the centrifugal force created when the tyre spins.

At first glance it’s quite similar to cold tear but because the whole tyre is overheating instead of just the surface, the rubber comes off with less effort as opposed to being ripped off a cold carcass like you see with cold tear, this then means hot tearing isn’t as deep.

引發原因：輪胎胎壓太低，因而接觸面積太大，胎體過熱，所以就形成撕裂傷，但是這個撕裂傷卻比低於工作溫度看到得更小一點，也比較好撕下來

Symptoms – As said above, it doesn’t take as much for the surface rubber to come off of an underinflated tyre because the whole tyre is overheating, so the tears on a tyre experiencing hot tear are fairly shallow and more spread out and you shouldn’t be able to get a fingernail deep under them like you can with a cold tear.

Also you will notice when looking at the tyre that the tears come down and into the centre of the tyre in an arc shape because of the centrifugal force of the tyre.

特徵：輪胎有明顯的差異磨耗，與撕裂紋。

 

這一類當然是過熱，每條胎有他的工作溫度，超過工作溫度會異常磨耗，更嚴重會胎料溶離，雖然要過熱可能很難，但是在賽道日的情況下激烈操駕與選胎錯誤重合的話，就有可能發生。由於過熱，此時輪胎是處於過軟流體性更大，靠著胎料剝離時的黏性支撐，這時輪胎正在異常的消耗；過熱可能是負載過高或是選胎錯誤。可能在行進中或彎道中因異常磨耗導致的抓力劇烈變化導致危險。

簡而言之：你太操胎了

 

 

Suspension Related Tyre Wear 避震相關之輪胎磨損 受力不均 

When we start talking about suspension and how incorrect settings can affect tyre wear, it’s difficult to explain what symptoms mean what because not every form of wear is unique to one particular component of the suspension. However, below I have outlined some points that should help you better determine if your tyre problems could possibly be suspension related.

If your rear suspension settings (rebound, compression, sag or spring rate) are incorrectly set to the point where they are then asking the tyre to act as a part of the suspension, you are immediately going to see some unusual wear or tearing because the tyre simply wasn’t designed to be used in that way.

To the untrained eye, tyre wear brought on from incorrect suspension settings could quite easily be palmed off as a pressure related problem (hot or cold tear), but there are some differences and some questions you can ask yourself to get you started on the right path to fixing it.

Do you know you have the right spring? – If your spring is either too hard or too soft for your weight, the carcass of the tyre will be put under a lot of strain because it’s being asked to act as a significant part of the suspension what with the spring not doing its job properly. This means the tyre ends up quickly shredding itself to pieces with incorrect loads.

重點在於，你要把基本的﹝SAG﹞搞定，其他就好調多了，SAG就跟彈簧磅數有相關，所以我一直說，彈簧對了就簡單了

車輛避震的運作中，輪胎也是其中一個環節。有時當避震無法處理些狀況或是設定不良時，輪胎就會成為了避震，在這樣的情況下你就快看到一些特別的磨耗現象出現在輪胎上。這類現象出現同時，騎士的路線也會有鋸齒狀出現。

Is the affected area uniform in width? – Have a look at the thickness of the tear. If you notice that the width of the tear is not uniform and changes considerably as you follow it around the tyre, then this is a good indicator that something is wrong with the suspension, usually rebound being out of adjustment. The picture to right demonstrates this.

看圖片可得知，你回彈調錯了啦，不是太快就是太慢，不過依照我的經驗，調太慢居多

 

依照這個影片的說明，磨損異常如果往前，是回彈太快

 

Does the tear go all the way around? – If it does, that may be poor tyre pressure or geometry.

如果輪胎整圈很平均的都這樣，那就是上面那一項，胎壓不足輪胎過熱啦

However if it doesn’t and you follow the tear around the tyre and notice that it is not a continuous tear i.e. there is an affected area, then there’s a sizable area where it’s clean, then there’s some more damage, then it goes clean again, this is another indication that a suspension setting is out, most probably rebound or compression, or even a combination of them both.

特徵：鋸齒狀的不均勻磨耗紋路

最明顯的莫過於圖中這類的磨耗紋路，這類紋路通常發生於避震阻尼調整錯誤(回彈太軟或回彈太硬)，輪胎成為了避震的一部分，被路面與避震一起虐待的現象。

簡而言之：你的後車一直在看輪胎跳恰恰，你知道嗎？

另一種狀況是整個輪胎都有撕裂痕，這通常代表太低的胎壓或是錯誤的騎乘姿勢，各類的撕裂痕出現的區域與狀況，都有它的原因，這裡只是提供最基本的分析，各類撕裂痕的判讀是需要大量經驗的。

 

翻胎

Are the edges of the tread raised? – If you have a raised area on either the leading or back edge of the tread, this is a strong sign that rebound damping on the forks or shock is set either too fast or too slow. Usually if it’s on the leading edge rebound is too slow, and if it’s on the back edge it’s too fast.

要看箭頭那個邊緣，如果它是在前面，代表反彈太慢，如果它在背面邊緣是太快了﹝這個我也搞不清楚XDD﹞，剛剛翻到別人寫的，跟我的想法相反，指細看箭頭指的那邊，有翻起來的突起，是回彈太慢

By answering the above questions, you should be able to determine whether or not you have a suspension related issue.

胎紋單一側翻起，這就是翻胎，

通常是回彈阻尼設定不正確(太快或是太慢)，出現在胎紋的負荷端就是回彈太慢(如圖所示)，在另一側就是太快。

這裡的太快太慢是指已經接近標準，微調範圍內的差異。

簡而言之：輪胎是無辜的，避震器才是兇手

 

Geometry Tears 幾何狀的磨損

Not enough weight on the front 前輪荷重太低

Cause – This type of motorcycle tyre wear is not quite as common as things like hot or cold tear as it comes from an incorrect geometry set up which usually affects the front tyre. What you see in the picture is a result of there not being enough weight on the tyre so it cannot get to operating temperature.

This means it cannot get proper grip or traction and as a result the front tyre pushes and drags across the ground when the rider gets on the throttle, rather than rolling over it as it should. The surface is then super heated and subsequently torn up.

Symptoms – With not enough weight on the front, what you’ll see is a much smaller band of tearing that looks very similar to hot tear on a rear tyre, only the band will be about 5-10mm thick, usually about half way between the centre of the tyre and the edge. Also, it will typically be uniform all the way around the tyre.

特徵：均勻分於前胎上的撕裂﹝撕裂傷大概只有5~10mm寬，並且長得比輪胎過熱的小很多﹞

圖上這種狀況是前胎變形量不足，通常是前胎的負荷太小或是錯誤騎姿造成。負荷太小另一個結果就是溫度上不來，輪胎無法維持在工作溫度。
像是瘋狂跑只上山，或是後座限速器等級太高等改變荷重的因素。

 

Too much weight on the front 前輪荷重太多

Cause – As the above heading would suggest, the other type of geometry tear is too much weight on the front. What happens in this instance is that when you start to turn the bike into a corner, because of the excessive weight on the front it will actually plough across the ground (rather than rolling), and it’s only when you have finished turning the bike and you get back on the gas that you take the weight away from the front end and the tyre is relieved.

As well as having too much weight on the front, this type of tear can often be caused by the front end being too soft in conjunction with too much weight.

Symptoms – With a geometry tear where there’s too much weight on the front it will be the edge third of the tyre that is showing signs of incorrect wear, so the affected area is quite large.

If your tyre is showing bad wear patterns on the edge third, where the start of the wear pattern (the bit closest to the middle of the tyre) follows the circumference of the tyre uniformly, you can be pretty sure you’re suffering from geometry tear and have too much weight on the front.

特徵：胎側明顯的異常消耗

上圖這一種就是前輪負荷太重，這類狀況也有可能是由錯誤的騎姿。
煞車手臂撐直手把或是下山太兇狠。

 

 

Tyre Discolouration – Blue Tyres 藍輪胎

 

You often see the question come up ‘why are my tyres blue’ or ‘what’s this blue stuff on my tyres’ with people suggesting that when you see it the tyres are done. This isn’t completely true.

What makes it blue? – Motorcycle tyres actually contain oils that keep the tyre soft and the blue/green tint you can see on your tyres is just the oils coming to the surface.

Why are they on the surface? – After the tyres have been used to the point where they gain significant heat, when they cool down again (this is one heat cycle) the oils in the tyre will often come to the surface. When you go back out and ride the bike these surface oils are scrubbed off and it’s only when you come back in and let the tyres cool down again that you’ll see more oils coming to the surface.

Each time you take a tyre through a heat cycle you are losing the oils that keep the tyre soft, so the more heat cycles a tyre has been through the less effective the rubber is going to be for you.

As a side note, heat cycles will affect track tyres a lot worse than road biased tyres, as road tyres are expected to go through these cycles.

這不用說了吧，不是放太久，就是放太久阿

 

藍輪胎

 

常有人問為什麼我的輪胎會微微藍藍的，這狀況是輪胎在正常使用後完整的熱胎騎乘，快速冷卻，冷卻時胎料中的油脂跑到表面造成的；輪胎中含有油脂，是在製造時被添加的，是為了確保輪胎的彈性。所以藍輪胎算是正常現象，但是同樣騎乘狀況時突然不再藍，可能是輪胎油脂耗盡的警訊。也是輪胎提早老化的警訊。

 

 

 

What we want to see from our tyres 正常現象

 

 So we know what we don’t want to see in terms of tyre wear, but what DO we want to see?

Have a look at the picture to the right, this is what you’re looking for. If you have a pattern like the one in the picture which looks like a beach where the tide has gone out, you’ve nailed it.

This doesn’t mean to say it will give you optimum performance (racers often sacrifice tyre life for better performance) but it does mean you are highly likely to see great longevity from your tyre with enough grip for any track day rider.

那什麼樣的磨耗現象是我們希望在輪胎上看到的呢？

 

圖中這樣均勻分布的小融痕就是我們希望看到的，細小的融痕代表負載適當，均勻的分佈代表使用符合原本設計胎體力學分佈。

 

 

Conclusion 

Motorcycle tyres are very expensive and probably the biggest expense for any track day rider or racer (apart from track time maybe), so making sure we are best equipped to deal with a tyre wear problem if it crops up is extremely important for keeping your tyres, and your wallet in good condition.

Taking the above advice into account I would like to think you will now be able to spot some of the clues and tell tale signs that show up when we experience unsavoury tyre wear, and as a result get on top of it as soon as possible before it ruins your tyres.

It’s also worth noting however that this is a fairly simplified guide to tyre wear and tearing as there are a multitude of factors that come into play such as pressures, suspension make up, how the rider rides the bike, and even the nature of the track where the problems occur, so all I have intended to do for you here is give you some baseline knowledge so you can head in the right direction to getting your tyre problems fixed. Something I hope I’ve achieved.

Other than that, keep one eye on those hoops ladies and gents!

Credit

I’ve got to give a lot of credit to Dave Moss of Feel The Track for this article. The above is what I’ve learned from watching and reading a lot of the free information he gives out on judging tyre wear. There isn’t really a quality resource for this subject so we are very fortunate to have Dave do the best he can to teach us track riders about bike tyre wear problems.

總結而論各種輪胎有他各自的工作溫度、胎壓與輪胎特性，每台機車也有自身的動力與避震狀況，而每個人的騎乘方式也是，所以選擇一條適合自己的輪胎是需要花費大量時間的；當然較高價的性能胎能提供較好的表現，但較好表現也代表更高的操作容錯率，也許簡單的解決了輪胎選擇的問題，但實際是卻便宜行事了一些潛在壞習慣的養成，在一般道路使用上當然沒有問題，但是在賽道上或是想要精進自身技術的角度而言又是另一回事了。